ASK THE EXPERTS
All your hair questions answered by our ghd expert stylists
12.03.09STYLE AND JET SET
Paul Hanlon's itinerary reads more like that of an international jet-setter than a hairdresser. When he's not in his London salon, Paul is producing go-getting looks for French Vogue, W Magazine and i-D where he works with top fashion photographers including Craig McDean, David Sims and Mert & Marcus. Regular destinations include Paris, Milan and New York for the international collections, which is where we caught up with him to reveal the inspiration behind the ghd sponsored Matthew Williamson A/W 2009 show.
What's the thinking behind the hair for the show this season?
PH: I wanted it to be a lot more graphic with the look, not architectural. Matthew and I wanted these girls to be a little bit stronger and a bit harder, as I have said Matthew's girls are always a little bit soft. He always uses a reference of a travelling woman - you know a girl that lives in Ibiza who is sexy.
He wanted it to be completely different this season and go for a slightly more mature look with the girls. My references were taken from the early nineties, low side parting, super shine, super graphic high gloss, a finished sleek, flat hair look, building in extra hair to get the finish we need.
And what products have helped you achieve this?
PH: This year ghd are exclusively sponsoring the hair for the first time and to achieve the look we wanted we have used all of the ghd IV styler collection including the ghd IV styler, ghd IV mini styler and ghd IV salon styler as well as a selection of the ghd thermodynamics range.
The ghd treatment range has really helped maintain the quality of the hair, and the ghd thermodynamics range used in conjunction with the ghd IV styler collection has given us exactly the finish we require.
We used ghd thermal protector with the ghd IV salon styler to get a great straight finish on the body of the hair and ghd smoothing balm to blow dry. For the shine and hold, we used ghd ultimate hair spray. What I like about this product in particular is it's quite wet and it achieves a really high gloss look, allows me not to have to use any crooks or bangs in the hair, because it's so strong it holds it in.
And then a little bit of the great ghd shining serum and ghd reflection spray to take any unwanted flyaways at the finish.
Where have you scoured the hair pieces from this year?
PH: I have a company in London called "Hair Raisers" that I have used for over 10 years, they give an impeccable finish. Now there is such a high demand for this type of thing, I tend to order well ahead of time because of greater demand supply will falter, especially around fashion week!
What other shows are you doing in New York?
PH: I just did the Crème show as well which was great
Are you doing any shows this year at London Fashion Week?
PH: Yes I will be working on four shows in London including Peter Jenson, Armand Bassy, Louise Golding and Richard Nichol. In Milan I am doing Burberry and Moschino: Cheap and Chic and in Paris I am styling the hair at the Hayder Achier Costume Nationale show
12.03.09An interview with… MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
Fresh from the fizzing energy of NY Fashion Week, we meet the Brit designer who’s been busting the gloom of the recession with his scrumptious colourful prints. Showing off an array of spirograph-inspired patterns and crystal embellishments for his A/W 2009 collection, the hair, courtesy of ghd, was luxurious and super sleek. Here, he talks about the ghd look, the upcoming trends and the inspiration behind his work.
What’s the inspiration behind the show this season?
MW: Its about Tibet, I was inspired by an image I saw in Tibet of some guys wearing sheep skin coats, so its mixing the ethnic elements of that with the much more modern almost futuristic side, tying them together to create a collection for the modern women.
What sort of fabrics have you used?
MW: Silk, mohair and a heavy beaded look has been key to this season’s collection as well as cross section and cashmere.
Have you matched the look of the hair and make up to the collection?
MW: The feel of the collection is luxurious so we wanted the hair to look expensive, polished and really rich looking. Paul Hanlon, our hair stylist and Charlotte Tilbury, make-up are my dream team and we work really well together the girls look super sexy and very strong, very chic
Curly or straights what is your preference for this year?
MW: Straight is in for 2009. This year we are working with ghd backstage in New York and the ghd stylers have really helped achieve the uber straight, sleek, sexy look we were aiming for on the catwalk
How do you decide on the styles you use, of the hair?
MW: It’s a process you go through with the whole team. Vanessa Cole the show stylist was very clear of how she wanted it to look, so we just work together and come up with something with the support of Paul
What look do you feel is really on trend for 2009?
MW: My first look of the show, look number one: a very effortless look consisting of a big “cocoon coat” in beautiful coloured mohair and a little cashmere jumper and a frilly shirt, a really pretty look
What can we expect to see from you over the coming year?
MW: I just opened my first flagship store in New York this week in the meatpacking district and my H&M collaboration launches in April. These are my main focuses for the coming months
Has this range taken inspiration from travelling?
MW: Yes, a trip to Tibet last year which really inspired me on the materials and textures for the collection this season
Any cute accessories that you have spied that are a must have this year?
MW: I am championing the statement necklace this year! The contrast of the heavy be-jewelled oversize necklace against the silk georgette works really well. This season the collection palette had a more natural, muted feel so I used accessories such as the kingfisher blue stone necklaces and watermelon belts to inject pops of colour.
Are you pleased with the result of the hair following your first time collaboration with ghd at NY fashion week?
MW: I am very pleased with the look that Paul Hanlon and the ghd directive produced for the show. The Matthew Williamson girl this season was definitely more slick, urban and luxurious, and the hair styling certainly expressed this. The hair was glossy yet tamed over the crown and then fell into a smooth, sleek long style at the back.
MW: You are a celebrated red carpet designer and a favourite of celebrities the world over - is there anyone who you have not dressed yet that you would love to?
MW: Prints are an integral part of my creative identity and I tend to include gowns in my collections to showcase them, which make for beautiful red carpet dresses. As a designer it is a real honour when a celebrity chooses to wear your dress to a high profile event, and therefore act as an ambassador for the brand.
In the past I have been lucky enough to have been represented by beautiful actresses such as Sienna Miller, Keira Knightley and Gwyneth Paltrow, but this has always occurred naturally through my friendships with them. I don't have a particular person whom I would like to dress, I just enjoy working with women who are not afraid to express themselves.
04.03.09AN AUDIENCE WITH… PAUL MERRITT
Involved with ghd on professional training and education for hairdressers since Spring 2008, the London-based BLOWW salon owner and TV’s The Salon celebrity stylist, Paul Merritt, is working with ghd on an innovative new training programme for stylists near you. Known for creating super sharp, precision-cut hair using the ghd IV styler before and after cutting, his styling approach is about combining skill with a smart attitude to deliver a haircut the client not only loves but that makes her feel great, too. This is what being radiant is all about. Here, he tells us his definition of radiance and just what it takes to achieve it.
What are you working on?
I'm running the ghd Urban Couture course at the brand new ghd style academy in Leeds and developing ‘An Audience With Paul Merritt’.
What can we expect?
It's about addressing what hairdressing means to me and how I've used it to achieve certain goals, so for stylists, it's about where they can take their career. What's important for me, is not only the technique, but understanding what’s right for the client.
What are the style directions for 2009?
What's interesting is that clients are less afraid about doing their own hair and they are getting better at it too. Rather than specific style trends, people are investing more time and effort into looking glamorous.
What inspires you?
Photographers Tim Bret-Day and Mario Testino, who shoot for magazines such as Vogue. I loved the latest Burberry ad. If you look at the big Bond Street brands, they pick the best photographers and stylists who achieve amazing looks. I also love living in London. It's one of the places that people gravitate to because it's so eclectic. I like being around it.
What qualities do you admire in a woman?
I would say something like style over trend. I prefer a woman who's stylish but not necessarily chasing a trend. She can have a great wardrobe, but puts it together for herself.
How would you define radiance?
Beauty and confidence: it's a combination of the two. It's when not only does a woman look great but she has an air of something else.
Who has that added something?
If you look at someone like Cheryl Cole, she never used to have it, but now she does. For a left field option: Dita von Teese. What she lacks in beauty, she makes up for in confidence, which makes her stunning. My favourite at the moment is Olga Kurylenko… the new Bond girl. Very hot.
How do you achieve radiance?
It's about empowering confidence. The way a hairdresser can do that is to get the right combination of colour, cut and style. You can do someone's hair and if it looks fantastic, they feel six inches taller.
What are the hero products?
The ghd IV salon styler. I think it's one of the best products for creating movement and changing the look of the hair.
08.09.08JAMIE STEVENS SHORTLISTED FOR MEN'S HAIRDRESSER OF THE YEAR
Creative Ambassador of the ghd Directive, Jamie Stevens, 27, has been short listed for the Men's Hairdresser of the Year Award in the prestigious British Hairdressing Awards.
One of the hottest young talents in hairdressing, Jamie already has a CV to die for: his own salon at 18; working for Beverly C, Daniel Hersheson and now Errol Douglas; shoots and cuts for the likes of Kylie, Stella McCartney, Elle Macpherson, Christian Slater, and Gok Wan to name but a few; and the coveted position of Creative Ambassador for – well, us.
Says Jamie: “My ambitions are to continue to work with Errol [Douglas], push myself and ghd to the max and hopefully win a few British Hairdressing Awards along the way, so I'm thrilled to be a finalist this year.”
The British Hairdressing Awards take place on Monday November 24 at Grosvenor House Hotel, London.