x Eugene Souleiman:
Acne at PFW SS18
Go behind the scenes at Paris Fashion Week with ghd and Eugene Souleiman.
For SS18 Acne showcased a heightened collection of separates, each with a specific point of view; jackets; shirts; high waisted trousers; sheer dresses. Fabrics appeared simple but were often treated or embellished. Tones of acid optimism mixed with the shares of thrift. Satin shirts ran through the collection, emphasising the message of separates, their collars oversized and pointed. Cuban heel mules were a cowboy patchwork of leathers, while strappy heels had a feeling of old made new.
“I am always interested in what sits outside of fashion. It’s an attitude that is at the heart of Acne Studios, and this season I wanted to explore this outsider way of being. These are individual pieces that are as if found, characterful looks that are made for pleasure”
- Jonny Johansson, Acne Studios Creative Director
The casting of models and in return everything surrounding the show had the same “separate” feeling. Eugene Souleiman adopted an effortless yet considered approach to styling. Crafting the hair involved being sensitive to each individual models style to bring out their inner cool.
“The looks are really considered but there are lots of subtle nuances in the styling of the hair and the choice of the girls. To me it’s very French. Very effortless, not in the sense of it not having a style, but our approach to styling, the style is effortless.”
Here's how to create the New Natural look:
Eugene didn’t create one look, he instead created a cool vibe which ran throughout and took inspiration from multiple sources; The Ramones, Tarantino films and the Pre-Raphaelites. Every model was treated as a “separate” and as such looks were varied depending on hair texture and style.
step one: Start by removing frizz from ends of the hair by applying EIMI Perfect Me.
step three: To add more of an unkempt finish to the look, a spritz of EIMI Sugar Lift was applied over the top of the hair creating a cinematic feel and the impression the girls had really lived.
“As you can see, I created a nice round shape in the hair. I love the fact it looks a bit fly away and a bit messy. I further enhanced that by spraying a tiny bit of EIMI Sugar Lift around the hair and let it sink in for a minute and then gave it one more blast with the ghd Air Hair Dryer.” To give hair a considered, heavy feel, nuances in texture were added by spraying EIMI Sugar Lift to finish the look.
“For me it just feels cooler, I think cooler looks work really well for shows like this. Normally for Acne we have a more minimalist approach to hair but for this show it’s more about the lifestyle.”